19 June 2010

After a good night sleep in the very busy Kathmandu city, here I am at 05:30am in a bus driving me and a group of 15 people to Tibet…

First surprise, the deluxe bus supposed to take us there is in fact just an old crappy bus with no air, no leg space… hummm… ready for 8 hours of bus ride… but on the other hand, the group looks really nice, we are all travellers aged between 25 and 30… Ambiance !

Before the bus departs, we are reminded that any books about or written by the Dalai-Lama , or books illustrating pictures of monks in Tibet are strictly forbidden to enter Tibet. Erm, sorry, I mean China.

Believe it or not, the Lonely planet is also forbidden. If you get caught at the border with one of these books, not only will the book be confiscated and you will be refused to enter the country, but you will also be questioned for hours or days by the police… without necessarily having a translator…

After a 6 hours rough and boiling hot bus drive, we arrive at the Chinese border of Zangmu, which we have to cross by foot. We were actually very lucky that the bus managed to drive up all the hills and landslides, as it is apparently not often the case and jeeps must be organized (and paid) half way up…

So here we are crossing the border without being allowed to take any pictures of course (after the book rules, nothing else will surprise me on this trip). Our bags are searched by the Chinese militaries… I have a sudden fright when I realize that I have actually a book from Greg Mortenson in my bag… illustrating not monks, but Americans and little veiled Muslim girls…. (and the words terrorism and Al Quaida are often mentioned in that book…) They take a look at it and through all the pages and finally decide to let me go… pfew….

Although the bag searching may seem very intruding and inappropriate, I was actually surprised to discover that it was done very politely and respectfully…and I was even more surprised when they helped me to close my backpack after search… one point for China !

Then, it’s checking passport time… The members of the group get through one by one but I am asked to wait on the side… my passport is taken out to another room « for verification »… I wait for about twenty minutes wondering what the hell is wrong with my Swiss passport… well, the red passport does unfortunately not have the reputation it used to have years earlier…

20 minutes later, I am set free and can join my new friends waiting for me and speculating on what the hell is happening to me…

We walk to our bus… wow… a deluxe half conditioned bus… two points for China!

But unfortunately, we get stuck in traffic in the terrible heat, the traffic is completely stopped and we have to wait for about 4 hours before being able to leave the border…

We arrive in Neyalam, a Chinese village at 3600m around 23:00, have a quick dinner and head to our dormitory where we get some sleep despite the dirty venue and the already beginning altitude sickness headache…

To be continued… (check out the new pics in the meantime !)

Last night in Pokhara – 17^th June 2010

It has suddenly arrived so fast… my last night in Pokhara… I can’t believe that 3 months have already gone by...

This afternoon, I went to collect the two beautiful Sarees I ordered with the help of my friend Tara, who Works in the EWN office.

We had lots of fun trying them all on and she is a hell of a business woman when it comes to negotiating prices! No wonder why she is the EWN office accountant!!

Tonight, I got treated to my favourite Nepalese dish, T Momos  (kind of steamed bread pastries). After dinner most of the family headed to the new TV to watch the world cup which was actually a huge event in Nepal, despite them not having a national football team.

Tara, Archana and I went to my room and they tried to teach me how to put on a Saree by myself. Of course, it’s one thing buying it and being helped by experts to wear it… but what am I going to do back in Switzerland… leave it on a hanger ??? that’s probably the most obvious option but I tried to do it a few times by myself and we had good laughs.

These girls are pure and innocent. They have brought so much love and simplicity in relationships into my life. It was wonderfully refreshing to meet them and to have become close friends, which they will remain forever.

Pokhara – Kathmandu – 18^th June 2010

Time to say goodbye to the children before they leave for school…. I am already in a terrible emotional state and have been crying in my room since 7am… not quite sure how I will cope but hopefully, I’ve gotten rid of all possible tears in my bedroom…

Wrong…. As the girls gather around me to say goodbye and hand me out a picture they have drawn for me, « Goodbye Joe Didi (big sister) » « Do not forget us »…. I burst in to tears… which makes them start to cry… oh how bad am I !!! so I swallow my wisdom as hard as I can and force a smile despite my red eyes and kiss them all goodbye.

As I wave them goodbye from the EWN office, watching them walk their way to school in their cute school uniforms, more tears rush down my eyes… these smiling girls have had such a rough start in life and yet, they are smiling… they are so strong… they are so brave.

I look at Butshpuri, laughing, talking, playing… and to think that she was taken away from her family less than 3 months ago... These girls have been through more challenges in their young age than I probably will in my entire life…

And despite all their bad experiences, they are full of love… they have all given me all their love… and I hope I have been able to give them some back and to make them happy while I was there.

May they get the best education and lead a life of intense happiness.

Time to say goodbye to the family. Archana put together a beautiful scrap book for me with lots of pictures of us and funny memories… More tears. More hugs.

AMA, the Chhetri grandmother blesses me for the last time. Although she looks sad, emotions should not be shown in public in Nepal… (I learnt that much later when I was back and felt very guilty for all my tears!)

Thank you so much to all of you : Archana, Tara, Tamuna, Mina (my excellent French students) Lucky, Nicky and Dicky (the most inspiring 3 sisters), Ama the grandmother for her wonderful sense of humour, Archana’s mum and Parina for their delicious Daal Bhat freshly cooked every day, Farina for your beautiful birthday party, Bora and all the brothers, sisters, uncles, aunts, nieces… I love you !!! My thoughts also go to all the wonderful people I met in Humla.

I came to Nepal hoping to find out who I was and what were my aims in life. I leave Nepal not only having found out the answers to my questions but with new friends and a second family. And with a strong will to continue doing everything that is in my ability to help my sisters in need around the world.

And off to Tibet! (to be posted very soon !

Namaste !

Only 3 days left in Pokhara before leaving Pokhara to go to Tibet and sadly, leaving the Chhetri Family on Friday.
I am trying to avoid thinking about this moment as when it comes to my mind, tears tend to appear in my eyes…
They have been so good to me, they have treated me like a member of their family, I now have half a dozen of older sisters, the same amount of younger sisters, 22 mini sisters, about 10 older and younger brothers and a lovely grandmother.
I have opened up so much since being here and I have learnt so much from Lucky, Archana, and EWN. They have really brought out the best out of me with their kindness, honesty and caring towards their family and community. They have been real role models to me and given me good fundamentals about humanitarian work and sustainable development.

Appart from work, I have been having a lot of fun and doing amazing things lately…

Where to start… I realize again I have not written for a while…

BOLLYWOOD MOVIES

The girls (Archana and Tara) and I have been watching a lot of movies for the last few weeks. I have introduced them to their first French movie with « La Vie en Rose », relating the French singer Edith Piaf’s life (the french actress Marion Cotillard is the first French actress to have received an Oscar award for her role in this movie). They really enjoyed it and were happy to catch one or two French words that they had learnt in class.

The continued sharing Bollywood movies with me :

RAJNEETI – An entertaining movie revealing the hidden side of politics in India.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKo8erznYhw)

MY NAME IS KHAN (and I am not a terrorist) A MUST SEE MOVIE !!!! It has now become one of my top 10 favorite movies. The story relates an Indian autist Muslim who moves to America and gets married to a Hindi woman… they lead a lovely life until 9/11 strikes and all the Muslims become foreseen as terrorists. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hau_0J_sc6M. Beautiful, moving and wonderful acting. You must see it !

I must also confide I have had serious crushes on a few Bollywood actors… (shhh, don’t tell anyone… !)

CRICKET FOR THE BLIND AND SEEING HANDS

Last week, Lucky was invited to the opening of a cricket game organized by the « Cricket for the Blind » organization. No I am not kidding, there were two teams of blind players, men and women and they played cricket. They put rice or something in the cricket ball which makes noise when the ball is thrown (or rather rolled to the floor) They therefore are able to hear the ball arrive and hit it and run…
It was so moving for me to see these people get on with their lives despite their disability, they were so joyful, so happy to be playing, to have people watching them… I couln’t contain my tears behind my sunglasses.
I could not find their website but here is an article about them http://www.cricket.com.np/new/2007/05/25/blinds-see-hopes-in-cricket/

I will also post a few photos shortly.

While I was there, I met a girl who was volunteering for another organization called seeing hands.

Seeing Hands Nepal is a UK Registered Charity, set up to provide training and employment opportunities in massage therapy for young blind people in Nepal.
Read more about it here :
http://www.seeinghandsnepal.org/

I decided it was an experience worth to be made so I booked an appointment the next day.
I was welcomed very professionally by my masseuse Lalu, was lead to a nice massage room and Lalu gave me a wonderfully relaxing and professional massage. I could honestly not tell the difference and I felt it was actually nice, as I had my eyes closed during the massage, that we were actually both in the dark.
If you go to Pokhara, you must go there and get a massage.
65% of the profit is allocated to the training of the blind people. You will combine relaxing and helping the community in one go !

MATA

In one of my first blog posts, I wrote : « I was invited to join which I did. We arrived in a tiny room, like a mini temple, covered in pictures of Ganesh, Buddha. She was sitting on a kind of throne, burning incense, the smell was lovely and this room was so peaceful. We all sat on the floor in front of her and blessed the photo of her husband. We stayed there for about 30 minutes, sometimes they cried in silence, sometimes they chatted along. We all got blessed at the end with a mix of incense and water.The mourning woman told the Niece that the result of her exams which she is expected to receive in June will be positive. This made her very happy. »
I have been to Mata many times since this post. I just love going there. She is so mystical I love it !
Last Saturday was my last visit, and we went with Archana, Tara and Farina (the niece which had taken me the first time). Turns out that Farina’s exams results were positive as Mata had predicted… Sceptic ? The girls have hundreds of stories she had predicted that turned out to be true.
I even have a few that she predicted for me… I have asked her a few questions (that I will keep to myself) and she made quite amazing revelations to me and was able see a few things that I had absolutely not mentioned and that were absolutely not obvious.
She gets about 100 visitors each day, and blesses them in many different ways and clears their aura, etc. She does it in a very soothing way that has nothing to do with dark magic. It’s a real treat to go and see her.
As this was my last visit, I decided to take along a few items that she could bless. I bought a lovely Ganesh statue (God protector of the home) and some insence to burn home. She blessed them with a nice little ritual that will remain a nice memory whenever I look at the statue. She also blessed my family with pictures that I had brought in…
Then, she gave me a porcupine spine and told me to keep it at home, that it provides good karma… I didn’t dare to tell her that I am a true defender of animal rights and I’m not sure that pulling porcupine’s spine is very animal friendly… hopefully, the animal died of natural death… gulp !
Ok, I stop there, this was just my « Eat, Pray, Love » crisis… Elizabeth Gilbert had Ketut, I have Mata ! You can find her pictures in the album « my friend the holy priest ».

BAKING CAKES

The girls saw my cupcake creations on my facebook page and went crazy asking me to teach them to bake.
We have had good fun in the kitchen (despite the terrible heat) and they now know how to make cupcakes, chocolate cake, vanilla cake and pound cake with chocolate frosting.

I kindly offered to bake a cake for Farina’s birthday (Lucky’s niece) who turned 17 last Sunday. That was before I realized that there would be the 22 girls from the home + about 15-20 people from the family…. When we celebrate birthdays at home, we are lucky if there are 4-5 people ! ☺
So one cake turned into four cakes and I spent about 5 hours in the kitchen, fantasizing about my home electric mixer ! Here, everything had to be done by hand. Bless our grand-mothers for their hard work !!!
Anyways, the cakes were yummie and Farina Sweet 17 was happy.

SARI NIGHT AND FARINA'S 17TH BIRTHDAY

Farina’s birthday was also the occasion for me to try on a Sari, that Lucky kindly lent me. I have been wearing trekking pants, old t-shirts, flip flops and trainers for almost three months now. I hardly ever bother to brush my hair as it is so hot, I just tie it up from 5am. I have not put any make up on for 3 months either… My mother would probably define me with the word « scruffy »…

But that night, after my 5 hours baking, I did the full service, including make-up. Then, Lucky and Dicky helped me do up the sari (which is not an easy business !). When I looked in the mirrow, I could not believe that this was me…. From scruffy pants to Cinderella… I know it sounds very immature, but waouh…. I could have danced all night !! (photos will be posted soon)
It was a wonderful moment between all of us (Lucky, Dicky, Archana and myself) and I find it lovely how the older sisters take care of preparing the younger ones and helping them. It was a real blessed moment between women.

The party was wonderful, everyone had great fun, including the home children who enjoyed the cake and dancing !

A magical evening that will stay in my heart forever !

3 CUPS OF TEA

A must read book ! The story of Greg Mortenson who failed to climb K2 mountain in the himalayas and ended up in a village in Pakistan, helping the poor villagers to build schools. Fights terrorism by providing education rather than bombs.

http://www.threecupsoftea.com/

PLANS UNTIL FRIDAY

Tonight, I am invited to dinner at the children’s home for a little goodbye party. I have bought all of them sparkly hair clips. I’m sure they will be very happy as they are always fighting for the only few available ones.

Tomorrow, I will try to find a sari as I am still high on last Sunday’s experience. It will probably end up hanging in my cupboard in Geneva but still, I want to bring back this beautiful memory with me.

The girls and I are planning to watch a few other movies and I guess that tomorrow night, I will have to pretend to show some interest for the Swiss football team… Yes, the world cup unfortunately is also very trendy here !

Take care everyone and speak in a few days, upon my return from Tibet !

Cheers !

Joelle